Beautiful Bufala by Giovanna Eusebi of Eusebi Deli in Glasgow
Campania in southwestern Italy is the home of bufala mozzarella. One of the biggest gastronomic souvenirs I afford myself on my trips from Naples to Formia is to stop off at one of the many roadside ‘caseificio’ - shops that make and sell the freshest and best quality bufala mozzarella. Every local resident has their favourite go-to ‘caseificio’. Mine is in the town of Mondragone, half-way between Naples and Formia. It’s located on a one-track road resembling something from the set of the old western film, A Fistful of Dollars. The whole road is dotted with these wonderful artisan cheese factories.
My Nonna Giovanna who lived in the coastal city of Formia in the summer would have a ceramic bowl on the kitchen worktop, full of bocconcini for her grandchildren to eat. Bocconcini are small balls of mozzarella, roughly the size of an egg and so make perfect snacks for the ever-hungry brood of children that would pass through Nonna’s kitchen. Unlike how we store cheese, the bocconcini had never seen the inside of a fridge. Locals still maintain to this day that it loses its flavour and nutritional properties if stored in the fridge.
Nonna would engage in whispered chatterings with neighbours, soliciting the best ‘caseificio’ to go to in the area, where you could buy the white gold that was so fresh it was still warm. The insider top tip was never to buy beyond a 30-mile radius north of Mondragone because otherwise it was regarded as ‘fake’! Mozzarella shopping was very serious business and there was a real determination to always seek out the very best product.
Buffalo mozzarella is truly unique. It is never a side, nor a main or starter. It is worthy of its own plate, simply served with a drizzle of oil. The best bufala should leave milk running down your cheeks as you enjoy its delicate flavour. It should grate on your back molars as you chew it. It takes four litres of the sacred rich milk to make just one kilo of the porcelain white cheese so it should be truly savoured and enjoyed.
Make sure the cheese you choose is DOP certified which stands for ‘denominazione di origine protetta’ or ‘protected designation of origin’. If it’s not certified, then you’re eating an imitation and who wants Fiorucci when you can have Ferragamo! Finding the real deal outside of the 4 certified areas of Campania, South Lazio, Lecce and Molise can be difficult. We go the extremes of bringing bufala mozzarella in from Campania once a week at the restaurant. Proper local cheese shops and even supermarkets also stock DOP certified versions too. While we do everything we can to have the best quality cheese, I still wonder what Nonna Giovanna and the neighbours would make of it…
Bufala mozzarella with vincotto cherries
The combination of cheese and fruit is a classic duo that we see in many different cultures. From Scottish cheddar with fruit chutney to French brie and figs, it’s a pairing that goes together in perfect harmony. This recipe is the Italian equivalent and now is the ideal time to enjoy this dish. Simple to prepare and utterly delicious, it’s best eaten outside in the sunshine with friends and family and a glass of great wine.
We’ve now launched our new summer menu at the restaurant, and we have a dish similar to this with burrata, cherries, mint and pistachios which is proving to be a real favourite! With each menu, our ethos is authenticity with an emphasis on showcasing the diversity of Italy’s regional cuisine. It’s perfect for sharing whether casual dining or celebrating the most special of occasions.
Eusebi Deli is located at 152 Park Road in Glasgow’s West End. For more information or to book your table, visit http://eusebideli.com/.
Serves 4
Ingredients:
4 x 125g balls of DOP bufala mozzarella
400g fresh cherries
½ lemon, zest only
½ orange, zest only
3 rosemary sprigs, stalks removed and finely chopped
250ml vincotto or good quality balsamic vinegar
To serve:
Fresh mint
Method:
1. First, stone the cherries and set them to one side.
2. Next, reduce the vincotto or balsamic in a pan over a moderate heat by two thirds or until it becomes a light syrup.
3. Next, place cherries in a roasting pan and sprinkle over the rosemary, orange and lemon zest. Pour over the reduced syrup and then roast in the oven at 160°C for 8 to 10 mins or until the cherries start to soften. Remove the cherries from the oven and set to once side to let them cool.
4. To serve, place each mozzarella on each plate. Drizzle the cherries around the plate and garnish with a few mint leaves.
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