The Italian Spring Table by Giovanna Eusebi of Eusebi Deli in Glasgow
Spring heralds new beginnings. The earth smells sweeter and the dullness of winter is quickly becoming a faded memory. A spring table in Italy resembles an Arcimboldo painting. With artichokes in full bloom, bright peas and young cheeses like ricotta and pecorino made with the seasons first sweet milk. It’s a beautiful sight to behold. I have great memories of podding curvaceous broad beans from my grandmother's field, signalling that spring had officially arrived. My grandfather’s loot of spindly wild asparagus was met with shrieks of excitement. These simple celebratory rituals have never left me.
Today, these memories still shape and inspire everything we do in the restaurant. Each seasonal menu change is inspired by moments at that table in my grandparents home, surrounded by our extended family and friends. There is no separating food from emotion for me. Intricately woven into each plate is also a modern culinary technique, applied sparingly to let the flavours speak for themselves. To cook simply takes discipline. It is about truly showcasing what is in a season, without complication. Honest, authentic and delicious ingredients deserve respect, love and attention.
There is a fragility about food - you eat it in a moment and then it’s gone. However, the memory stays with us, long beyond the last bite. As well as the Italian table, the French table is also embedded in my food memories. My French aunt was my gastronomic goddess. Although born in Italy, she was just a little girl when her parents along with my mother and her brother Gianni moved to Lyon. Bruna or ‘Babette’ as she was affectionately known was the walking vision of ‘la classe’. Her style was striking, she had backcombed blonde tousled hair and sun-kissed olive skin. Her heart was Italian but her soul was evidently French.
Ballet was Bruna’s first love much to my mother’s annoyance. Every Saturday, the sisters were tasked to clean and polish the parquet flooring. They would strap slipper cloths onto their feet and ‘patinage’ or skate along the floorboards. Bruna would easily get distracted practising ballet movements whilst her elder sister looked on with disapproval. Tensions were eased later in the day when they were rewarded with a gateaux from their favourite patisserie whilst shopping at the local outdoor market for their mother. Sundays were family days, walks along the Saône River, watching their father play pétanque and they always ended the day with a simple family meal together.
When I was a child, Bruna would recount these tales to me. What was so evident was that despite the food only lasting moments, the memories were engrained. The special warmth that food and dining with loved ones can provide should never be overlooked. At Eusebi’s, we look to provide a space where memories can be made. Food can provide joy and families, friends and loved ones can come together for memories to be made, cherished and retold for years to come.
Eusebi Deli is located at 152 Park Road in Glasgow. For more information, visit http://eusebideli.com/ .
Sea Bream and Pineapple Carpaccio by Giovanna Eusebi of Eusebi Deli in Glasgow
Serves 2
Ingredients:
1 small pineapple, peeled and trimmed
1 sea bream fillet
For the dressing:
½ tsp pink peppercorns, crushed
3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
⅓ lemon, juice only
To garnish:
Micro fennel
Salt and pepper, to season
Method:
1. First, prepare the sea bream. Place the fish skin-side down on a board. Using a sharp knife, slice the fish very thinly at an angle. Reserve in the fridge until you’re ready to serve.
2. Next, prepare the pineapple. Carefully char the outside of the pineapple on an open flame or use a blow torch. You want to completely blacken the outside of it. Once the pineapple is completely cool, slice it as finely as possible and set aside.
3. To make the dressing, combine the lemon juice, extra virgin olive oil and peppercorns together in a bowl and mix well.
4. To assemble the dish, overlap the pineapple slices in a circle on the plate. Arrange the sea bream slices in the centre. Season to suit your own taste and then drizzle over the peppercorn dressing. Finish with the micro fennel garnish and serve.
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