SITTING majestically on the banks of the River Dee, it is known as the Gateway to Royal Deeside. Banchory’s charms are immediate, mixing history and tradition with contemporary vibrancy in the plentiful restaurants, cafes and independent shops.
The surrounding landscape, meanwhile, is simply spectacular, with hills and glens, forests and rivers, castles and waterfalls galore. Indeed, you can see why Her Majesty isn’t the only one tempted back to the area year after year.
Historic highlights
Some 18 miles west of Aberdeen, Banchory is believed to have been founded by “Bishop of the Picts” St Ternan, a follower of St Ninian, in the fifth century.
Two early Christian cross-slabs still survive on the site of the town’s earliest church.
The Burnett of Leys family were influential in the area, having been given land by Robert the Bruce in 1323. They built Crathes Castle in the sixteenth century, which served as the ancestral family home until 1951, when it was given to the National Trust for Scotland.
Banchory grew significantly in the Victorian era with the coming of the railway in 1853 (it departed again in 1966). These days it remains a popular choice for families, commuters and tourists alike.
What to do
You’ll enjoy exploring Banchory’s handsome, bustling high street with its attractive granite architecture, historic churches and vibrant mix of shops, cafes and hotels.
A trip to the excellent Banchory Museum on Bridge Street is a must (livelifeaberdeenshire.org/museums). Telling the story of Banchory and its people, it is particularly strong on the life and times of James Scott Skinner – the Strathspey King – fiddler and dancemaster to Queen Victoria. There are also fascinating exhibits on the archaeological wealth of the area and the local contribution to the First World War.
Since 1994 the Barn Arts Centre (thebarnarts.co.uk) has been the town’s main creative hub.
With a great reputation on the folk and traditional scene, it stages regular live music, comedy and drama, as well as film screenings and visual art.
Have a mooch about the on-site gallery or visit Buchanan’s Bistro next door for coffee and cake. You can also wander round the community allotments and wild garden to the rear.
The Falls of Feugh on the southern edge of town offer wonderful views all year round, but during February and March, then in September to November, you may be lucky enough to witness the extraordinary natural phenomenon of salmon leaping.
Dating back to the mid-16th century, historic Crathes Castle and garden is also a must (nts.org) for visitors to the town. Inside this Scots baronial masterpiece there are antiques, portraits, painted ceilings and Burnett family heirlooms galore, with some linking back to the days of Robert the Bruce.
Outside, meanwhile, the stunning garden and grounds are home to a wonderful array of plants, trees and wildlife.
You’ll easily spend a whole day at this family-friendly castle, which hosts a full schedule of events throughout the year and has a smashing courtyard café.
Castle open at weekends only till April 1, then daily. Gardens and café now open daily. Meanwhile, more adventurous visitors looking to channel their inner Tarzan will enjoy the on-site Go Ape treetop experience (goape.co.uk).
And if one castle isn’t enough, just a 10-minute drive from Crathes is Drum Castle, ancient seat of clan Irvine. Also in the care of the National Trust for Scotland, it recently underwent an impressive renovation.
The cosy tearoom is worth a visit in itself.
Where to eat
The award-winning Cow Shed (cowshedrestaurantbanchory.co.uk) brasserie in Raemoir Road offers local seasonal ingredients cooked with flair and simplicity in lovely surroundings.
The Deeside venison with haggis olives is a delight, and the fish and chips are also world-beating, whether eaten in or bought from the Cowshed “chipper”.
The Falls of Feugh Restaurant at Bridge of Feugh (fallsoffeugh.com) also reflects the best of Scotland’s larder, blending local ingredients with a modern, no-fuss approach.
The rainbow trout with langoustine bisque and locally foraged wild garlic is an excellent calling card, while the steaks are memorable too.
If it’s a taste of the Mediterranean you’re after, Mamma Mia in Dee Street is the place to be, run by locals Michele Rossetti and Lesia Robertson. Superb pizzas and the best tiramisu in town.
The Chatterbox café in Dee Street serves up tasty soups, sandwiches and cakes. And if it’s a buttery you’re after, you’ve come to the right place. Tease Coffee Bar on the High Street offers an extensive choice of ethical coffee from all over the world. Full selection of teas and hot chocolates, too. And the carrot cake is sensational.
Where to shop
Deeside Drinks Emporium stocks a fantastic array of wines, whiskies and artisan beers with a focus on the local.
Gift shop Copper & Grey on the High Street is full of bright and breezy cards, gifts, stationery and jewellery.
Keen cooks looking to source the best local ingredients should head to the Banchory Farmer’s Market from 9am till 1pm on the third Saturday of the month at Bellfield car park.
Foodies will also want to visit Finzean Estate Farm Shop which sells a wide range of fresh vegetables, home-reared beef, Finzean venison and game, local artisan cheeses and home-made preserves.
At nearby Milton of Crathes, Milton Art Gallery has work by local artists as well as a fine selection of prints and jewellery.
Where to stay
Boutique: Award-winning Banchory Lodge sits right on the banks of the Dee and offers a friendly boutique experience from £89 a night. The newly renovated rooms are spacious and decadent.
Traditional luxury: Four-star Tor-Na-Coille is a classic country house hotel set in beautiful grounds, with sweeping views across the Aberdeenshire hills. Rooms from £80 a night.
Quirky: Shieling Beag is a gorgeous studio apartment for two just a few hundred yards from the town centre, with access to a private garden and wonderful views. From £50 a night on Airbnb.co.uk
What to do nearby
You don’t have to go far for an evocative insight into ancient Aberdeenshire. Nine Stanes Stone Circle, just three miles from Banchory, has been part of the landscape here for more than 4000 years.
The Deeside Railway was a vital transport link for over 100 years before being closed as part of the notorious Beeching cuts of the 1960s.
More recently the line has been revitalised by the Royal Deeside Railway Preservation Society, which offers a traditional – and magnificent – steam and diesel experience along the River Dee. Go to deeside-railway.co.uk for details.
Cairngorms National Park, the UK’s biggest, is just a short drive from Banchory, a stunning natural playground for walkers, climbers, hill runners, cyclists, kayakers, wildlife-lovers and photographers of all ages and abilities.
Even beach bums will be in their element thanks to the beautiful sands at Loch Morlich.
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