What is it about The Palmerston? Since it opened last year it’s been the most talked about, most recommended restaurant in Edinburgh. It’s earned rave reviews, a Michelin listing and the hearts of its many regulars. Looking around the room there are awkward first dates at the bar, a large group of women in sports-luxe, older couples and families. They all know what I now know: that The Palmerston is the best place for relaxed, unfussy dining in Edinburgh’s West End.
The atmosphere is buzzing, with staff weaving between tables with hot plates and glasses of wine. I’m there on a Tuesday but it feels like a Friday so a cocktail seems in order: the house Spritz with local Edinburgh Electric Spirit Co. gin, Campari, prosecco, orange and soda is just the ticket. There’s a Parisian bistro feeling: bright and airy with wicker chairs, checkerboard floor and a gleaming bar. No. 1 Palmerston Place was once a bank branch and downstairs the vault is now a wine cellar. Eating and drinking feels like a far more enjoyable use for this characterful space.
The Palmerston is the first opening for Lloyd Morse, who heads up the kitchen, and James Snowdon, who leads front of house. The pair aim to champion sustainability and local produce on their menus. Fruit and vegetables are supplied by Phantassie and The Free Company, meat from Butchery at Bowhouse and Kildermorie Estate, fish from Welch’s and an in-house bakery.
The menu changes daily, with six to eight choices at each stage, following the seasons and their suppliers. No tasting menu, just starters, mains and puddings. Perusing the day’s choices there’s a hare and bacon pie with buttered cabbage designed for two to share; venison sausages with white beans, and salt beef with carrots and turnips. The Palmerston believes in nose-to-tail cookery and it shows: there’s a mallard and fig terrine and pickled triple salad on the starters today too. This is truly hearty, seasonal eating and I’m here for it.
We start with some wintery salads. My partner and I both work from home and there’s a lot of toast involved so we need a vitamin boost. Bitter chicory leaves are balanced with sweet chunks of squash, crunchy walnuts and tangy Cashel Blue cheese. Sprouting broccoli with lemon, yoghurt and hazelnuts is even better, and the house sourdough is ideal for scooping.
After much agonising I opt for baked cod with lentils for my main course. It’s a classic French bistro dish and can be a bit dull in the wrong hands (or if I make it at home). Here it’s outstanding – tender leeks accompany the lentils, both cooked to just al dente, bringing out all their flavours; the cod is tender with crispy skin; and a zesty sorrel and caper pesto lifting the earthy flavours. To me this embodies the cooking at The Palmerston: simple fresh produce, impeccably sourced, skilfully cooked to really show what these ingredients can do.
My partner also picks a winner: fish stew with saffron, orange and tomato, a generous scoop of aioli and sourdough toast to scoop and dip. Thankfully, he’s good at sharing or I’d have to order a second bowl just for me.
Snowdon’s wine list is extensive and interesting with plenty of delicious bottles at the affordable end of the scale. On his advice we choose a young Spanish Tempranillo, which is juicy and rich in dark fruits and a great match for the bold flavours on our plates.
Puddings are a triumph too. My partner’s just has the edge: warm apple and calvados cake and custard My poached quince, meringue and plenty of sherry cream is delicious but you just can’t beat cake and custard on a dreich night. I hope it’s on the menu next time – I’ll definitely be back.
The Palmerston has another convert. It’s classic and exciting, elegant and welcoming, and has nailed the all-day dining vibe. Whether you bring your granny or a date, they’re sure to love it.
The Palmerston, 1 Palmerston Place
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